mondaino

it is literally perfect here.

I spend a rainy morning in the family's cantina with Phelan (the father) helping stack the wine downstairs in the cellar. The building was built in the 13th century, with the most recent renovations done in the 17th century, complete with the cane roofing with plaster applied ontop. Their wines are fantastic - they all prefer the white which leaves plenty of red for me. In the car ride back to the farm he puts on a cd and is pleased to bits that I not only recognize but adore Van Morrison.

Suzie cooks a fabulous dinner and we all drink and eat and talk, drifting into the living room afterwards to continue sharing stories about our families. Iris asks if I'd like to go out. We head out on the town of Mondaino to the piazza and have espresso con sambucca. Their son Basil joins a bit later and I get to meet all their friends including the town crazmo. Endless beers and everyone rolls their own cigarettes. Some people understand French so I can talk about more than just the days of the week, SCORE.

One of their friends wins big on the slot machine, buys a case of beer and we all head over to his apartment down the lane. About a dozen amazing people around the table, someone breaks out grissini and marinated aubergine and pomodori secchi and Stevie Wonder on the stereo. There is a trapeze but I decline. Iris parts a bit earlier but I stay on with Basil. The friend breaks out the dregs of his liquor cabinet and we demolish it. We end up trekking all the way back home to the farm literally in time for me to feed the chickens.

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Today Basil and Iris take me out wild asparagi hunting. They have trained eagle eyes and are surefooted as billy goats out in the forest. I discover I am pure crap at it. I manage to get tangled up in the bush, stabbed by a rogue porcupine quill and positively drenched in the rain but find six straggly stalks. "Look guys!" I come stumbling over to where they wait at the sheep enclosure. They turn to face me, their arms overflowing with bushels of asparagus and laugh goodnaturedly.

I clean myself up and come upstairs to see Basil and Phelan making tagliatelle and taglialini. Basil informs me one of his friends from last night called several times and wants to cook dinner for me tonight.